Tag Archives: pet health

Home Remedies 101 : Part 3

For dog owners, the only sound that sums up summer more than the soothing sound of the ocean is the jingle of ID tags as their dogs shake their heads and scratch their ears. Why all the noise? Because summer often means ear infections for our canine companions.

In dogs, ear infections are often caused by environmental allergies. When the air gets warm, pollen, mold spores and other allergens begin to thrive and waft around on the currents, causing allergies to flare up. These allergies can make the skin that lines the ear canal inflamed, opening the door for secondary bacterial and fungal infections.

And if your dog loves to swim, excess water in the ear canal can create the kind of dark, moist environment where yeast and bacteria thrive. 

Many of my patients ask me how to clean their dog’s ears at home, so I thought I’d share my advice.

It is virtually impossible to totally clean your dog’s ears at home. They all have a very long vertical ear canal leading to a horizontal canal, which means you cannot reach with normal Q-Tips. Veterinarians are taught special techniques for cleaning, and they use an “otoscope” to look, visualize and detect any damage to the eardrum.

Due to the delicate nature of all of this, the only safe things at home are to use natural “holistic” cleaners or white vinegar diluted into water helps to discourage the yeast commonly found in ears. You can wipe with a cotton swab (not gauze).

Note about ears – Virtually ALL ear infections are secondary to an underlying allergy, often to a food component and/or environmental pollens. So it is important to see an integrative, natural or allergy orientated vet to get to the root cause and try to stop any cycle of ear infections.

Also it is not recommended to regularly clean healthy ears. The body produces a natural protective wax and if there’s no odor or itch or redness then we don’t want to remove this wax by unnecessary cleaning.

Reasons why pet owners should never use LONG medical Q-Tips:

  • They can break off and become a foreign body in the ear canal;
  • If owner actually reaches the eardrum they will inadvertently rupture this with the Q-Tip.

In short, any odor, abnormal discharge, redness, itching or head shaking warrants a visit to your integrative vet. There may be a foxtail or foreign body inside of the canal in any of these cases, which can permanently damage the ear, it is painful and can also cause hearing loss. Even infections allowed to wait too long can have the same (disastrous) consequences.

As an integrative vet, I believe it is CRITICAL to find the underlying CAUSE of mild to severe ear issues so we can stop the cycle of repeat infections, which can lead to irreparable damage and/or the need for MAJOR surgery.

Spring Has Sprung!

CATS everywhere are yowling for attention…the females are restless and the boys are a ’fightin’. Even your spayed and neutered felines are feeling the fun in the air. I have had a few early fighters in my practice already, with small abscess repairs and a not-so-fun week of confinement with that embarrassing e-collar….

Be aware that it is far better to build a “catio,” or other large wired-in area for your kitties, so they can safely play “wildcat” without the associated risk. Along with cat-fights, the risks on the rise as it gets sunnier include coyote predators, owls, bobcats and of course, cars driven by happy teens out for spring and summer fun.

If you must let your kitty wander the ‘hood during the day, please have them in for supper (theirs) by about 5 pm, before dusk descends. If you notice your pet lying around, a little quiet, or subdued, often they have a developing abscess somewhere that just hasn’t demanded your attention yet. It’s best to really feel around for a sore spot on kitty’s body so you can detect that swelling before it gets too big or-yuck-ruptures.

Lastly, let’s talk about restless DOGS and spring. Most of you responsible pet owners have spayed and neutered dogs. But for other reasons, dogs too, want to really get out there and run and play and sniff our (finally) abundant, post-rain grass!

With all of that drive and activity, you may start to notice more knee and elbow strains in the more active pups, and joint stiffness and pronounced limping in those older “weekend warrior” canines. We have been using several amazing ALL-NATURAL products that are REVERSING JOINT DISEASE, REMOVING INFLAMMATION FROM THE JOINTS AND BONES, and doing a little general reverse aging as well. (I’m in for the human version….). Call and ask today about BIOCELL, EXCEL CAMELINA OIL, AND VETSMART HIP AND JOINT…remember, pure, clean, and 95% absorbed the minute it passes their doggy lips!

Let’s keep the SPRING in your pet’s steps this Spring!

Home Remedies 101 – Part 2

Over the next few weeks I’ll be sharing some of my most valuable home remedies for pet health that can keep your dog’s tail wagging and kitty purring. These tips will help you to gauge when to call your integrative vet.

I get asked a lot about how to safely remove a ticks from your dogs.  Well let me start by saying that if your dog spends lots of time outdoors, tick checks should be part of your daily routine. Here’s how to spot a tick – and what to do if one has grabbed hold of your pet.

Start by running your fingers slowly over your dog’s entire body. If you feel a bump or swollen area, check to see if a tick has burrowed there. Don’t limit your search to your dog’s torso: check between his toes, under his armpits, the insides of his ears, and around his face and chin.

Ticks can be black, brown or tan and they have eight legs. They can also be tiny: some species are only as large as the head of a pin.

Don’t use your hands or fingers, as you’ll squeeze the tick contents into your dog! Use tweezers or a tick removal device. Pinch the area of skin under the tick to make a “hill”.

Grasp low at the “neck” of the tick or lower, and slowly twist and pull, allowing time for the tick to detach. You may want to apply Frontline spray or topical first to allow ticks to loosen and some even fall off.

It’s normal for a reactionary bump to remain. Just note if there is a black piece still there then this is the head of the tick. The head itself poses no real risk, as the dog’s body will naturally push it out over time.

The tick’s body has the diseases, so as long as it is removed before 24-48 hours of being on the dog-it requires that time for disease transmission. If it’s been longer than 24 hours, plan to consult your vet for tick disease testing and possibly preventative antibiotics.

Unless you can’t get to the tick, you don’t really need a vet to remove it.

I hope you found this article helpful.

Much love, light and health.

Dr. Tiffany Margolin

Dr. Tiffany Margolin posing with a dog

Home Remedies 101

Over the next few weeks I’ll be sharing some of my most valuable home remedies for pet health that can keep your dog’s tail wagging and kitty purring. These tips will help you to gauge when to call your integrative vet.

Sick dogs often show a lack of appetite and energy, restlessness, panting, or inactivity. If you suspect that your pet is not feeling well, you may want to take his temperature at home to gather information about symptoms of illness. Unlike humans, dogs will not show the same signs of having an elevated temperature, such as warm skin or shivering. Therefore, it is important to learn how to take a dog’s temperature to get an idea how high his or her fever is and to possibly see a veterinarian.

Part 1 – Taking your pet’s temperature at home.

When taking your pet’s temperature at home use LOTS of water-soluble lube (like KY) and use a digital thermometer available from your local pet store.. And if you have your partner or friend close by that is a big help too.

Lubricate the thermometer.

Holding the thermometer in your dominant hand (which should be near the dog’s tail end), dip the end of the thermometer in the lubricant.

Lift the dog’s tail.

Use your non-dominant hand (eg. your left hand if you are right-handed) to grasp the base of the dog’s tail and lift it up. You should firmly but gently lift up on the dog’s tail, exposing the dog’s anus. Be careful with females to place the thermometer in the right hole (top one ☺)

Hold the thermometer parallel

To the dog’s long axis, holding the thermometer horizontal and pointing from tail to head. Keeping the thermometer in this position, touch the end of the thermometer to the anus.

Take the dog’s temperature.

If you are using a digital thermometer, you will need to push the button on the shaft of the thermometer to turn it on. Push it again to begin taking the dog’s temperature.

The display will likely flash or you will see the temperature increasing while you take the dog’s temperature.
Wait between 5 and 60 seconds, depending upon the thermometer. When you hear the thermometer beep, or if the temperature has leveled off and is remaining steady, you are finished.

Mistakes can be caused if there is poop in the area, which can make the reading lower and also not getting the thermometer in far enough can also result in a false reading.

General temperature in normal range for dogs is 99.5 – 102.5. If it’s over 103.2 you should retake and if it persists or goes up then you should see your veterinarian right away.

Low temperatures can occur in old, debilitated and critically ill animals. A 98.5 or lower is cause for concern in a normal animal.

Again always do a second reading in case it may be a “user error” and save you a trip to your vet.

** All of the above rules apply to taking your dogs temperature.

If you try and take your cat’s temperature YOU may be the one going to the hospital!

Wishing you much love, light and health,

Dr. Tiffany Margolin

Dr. Tiffany Margolin posing with a dog

PEA: A Natural Animal Pain Supplement

Article on PEA

I am often asked, of late, about the beneficial effects of cannabis, or any derivatives from the marijuana plant, for my patients.

Since my community is one of natural healing and hemp-savvy people, this is not surprising. In addition, many of my (human) clients have experienced relief in some form from the use of various parts of the cannabis plant.

Natural health

While many people realize they are not going to give “pot” to their pet due to undesired side effects (the very worst being fatal), they still wonder about hemp-derived supplements.

Lucky for my community, I have been working with a pure, body-produced substance called palmitoylethanolamide (PEA for short).

PEA Pills

PEA has more times the anti-inflammatory potency of cannabinoids (part of the endocannabinoid system) –or cannabis–with NONE of the side effects or psychotropic effects.

First, let’s look at where musculoskeletal pain comes from and how it worsens into more irreversible conditions in the body:

Although there are many kinds of pain, by far the most common and disruptive to your pet and thus, to you, is musculoskeletal pain.

Over 80% involves some part of the back or neck, with the remaining involving round joints such as hips, knees, and elbows.

The development of pain progresses from initial small injury, reactions of the surrounding muscles and connective tissues, spasms, to constricted blood supply, then comes anoxia, acidic environment,  pain modulators with nervous system reaction, and finally stagnation (stopping of processes).

This is painful. If it lasts and no restoration of circulation occurs, then the body will lay down fibrous tissue. This is avascular and replaces healthy normal tissue causing more adhesions and constriction-then restricted movement, not to mention more pain.

If the inflammation and fibrous tissue issues are still not addressed, the body then tries to stabilize the affected, painful areas, especially when this occurs between the vertebral bodies (in the spine). This progresses from fibrous tissues to the migration and formation of laying down new bone. So now you have the first bone spurs, then eventually, bony bridges between the vertebrae.

This fusion of areas of the spine is the foundation of much pain and lameness that we see in small animals. The pain can sometimes spread to the joints in their wrists and ankles.

If we can address these issues far before the fiber and bone is laid down, you have a HUGE window of prevention and reversal of this whole process.


Common Sources of Pain and Distress in Dogs (PEA-responsive):

  • Neck and spine problems
  • Ear inflammation/pain
  • Stifle/knee pain
  • Anxiety
  • Seizures

Cat experiencing chronic pain

Common Sources of Pain and Distress in Cats:

  • Neck and spine pain (very common in cats)
  • Arthritis of the knees
  • Anxiety
  • Allergies
  • Seizures (of non-tumor origin)

Mammals have an “endocannabinoid” system that produces this substance-PEA-naturally. Chronic stress, inflammation, and other dysfunctions can lead to low production of endogenous PEA.


Positive Effects of PEA

Used for many years already in Europe, PEA has had profound and remarkable anti-inflammatory effects on the humans and pets using it. It is markedly anti-inflammatory, very safe, with minimal to no side-effects, and can be combined with all other medications and drugs. (Always check with your vet or doctor before taking any sort of pill).


Some features of PEA include:

  • Painkiller and anti-inflammatory compound
  • Anticonvulsant activity
  • Addresses nerve pain
  • Reduced scar tissue formation
  • Aids in treatment of glaucoma
  • Produced in our cells, natural compound
  • Protects cells
  • Proven to be effective and safe in many clinical trials in more than
  • 5000 patients tested- with no documented adverse drug interactions
  • Can be combined with any other compound
  • Available as a capsule and as a cream


Some additional natural and western (medications) that can be used individually and in combination with PEA for pain:

  • Boswellia
  • Turmeric (with black pepper)
  • Anti-inflammatory herbs
  • Glucosamine/chondroitin (injections work best, followed by oral supplements)
  • Muscle relaxant medication (can work in tandem with modalities such as acupuncture or chiropractic as well)
  • Noni poultices
  • NSAIDS-Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory medications
  • Opioids
  • Steroids


PEA Helps Treat Back Pain

One of the things I find most intriguing about the cannabinoids and PEA is that PEA can replace steroids, one of the more powerful and problematic treatments for back problems. However, if chronic pain is severe, a more integrative approach may be necessary for your pet.

I am asked if Cannabidiol (CBD) is the same. It is different as it derives from the plant (as opposed to the body) and it works through a different mechanism. Because it is from the cannabis plant, there may be varying psychotropic effects, albeit small.

Narcotics, opioids, non-steroidal drugs all act via different mechanisms than the PEA.


How Cats Benefit from Using PEA

A note about CATS: Cats metabolize many western medications very differently than dogs. They cannot tolerate most non-steroidal anti-inflammatories and can have strong negative reactions to antihistamines (for allergies). With such a narrow range of options, the natural substances, and specifically PEA, has been very promising. And since cats groom quite a bit, the use of essential oils or rubs can be dangerous.

Since my background includes Chinese and Ayurvedic medicine, I make sure to take into account the “constitution” of a pet when I’m treating them.

This can be a complex subject, but simply, think about breeds and how they look. A Labrador is often an “excess” dog. They have big, red tongues and have heavy features. They can hold heat, specifically DAMP heat.

A thin, older Maltese is often a “deficient” animal and is prone to COLD. Thus I talk to people about avoiding environmental conditions that increase pain in that particular body.

Keeping labs cooler, using foods that cool their body, while keeping the Maltese warm and feeding them carbohydrates that produce heat– these can all enhance the results of natural pain control.


We Offer Holistic Animal Care


Vet assistant holding a dog
I also offer acupuncture, chiropractic, cold laser therapy and Myofascial release as natural physical adjustments that are used to speed up and help with health results.

If you’re interested in learning more about our holistic animal care, please contact us.

Flea Misconceptions and Safe Solutions

dog who could have a flea issue



“I think my dog has fleas again, but I don’t see any….I just put the flea stuff on last week…” Carol says.

“What’s Chance doing? ” I ask.

“He’s scratching again like mad.” She explains.

Therein lies the rub, or the scratch, as the case may be. If a dog or cat is scratching, it may not be fleas or any external parasite. Most animals that actually carry an infestation of fleas (or one or two) are NOT that itchy. This is because the itchy ones are often demonstrating a flea ALLERGY, a reaction to the flea bite/saliva.

Furry dog 

Signs Your Pet May Have a Flea Allergy

Tiny molecules of flea saliva can cause the itch. If a pet is actually itchy and allergic, whether to fleas or other things such as food/pollen, then they don’t tolerate fleas living on them. Thus the itchy animal may not have fleas at all.

However, and this is what may be confusing, they still need flea control. Because the pet that is itchy usually has an ALLERGY to fleas, if flea control is not used (one that works), than a big allergic reaction can result even without many fleas around.

In addition, allergies are ADDITIVE, so if your pet has, say a pollen allergy or dust mite allergy, then it may not be active until or unless the wrong food or a flea bite ADDS to the immune system’s aggravation.

So one component of an allergy can put the pet above his “threshold” for itching. Thus it’s quite possible to control flea allergies or food allergies simply by limiting one or the other, not always both.

Now that you know fleas DO need to be controlled, what is the best way? 
I often get the question:

“What type of flea spray or powder do I use in my HOUSE?”

My client is worried about the fleas living around the house or yard.
The good news is most of a flea’s lifecycle is ON the pet. Why is that “good” news? Because if you control the fleas ON your pet, it is less and less likely as time goes by, that they will live and hatch in your environment.

Of course, there are exceptions. In California, where I live, the fleas LOVE the weather. They hang out and reproduce most of the year. If you have carpet, there are more places for eggs to land and stay.

However, if your house is wood/tile or another hard surface, controlling and killing on-board fleas will leave you flea-free and happy.

cat and dog lying next to one another 

Cats Can Cause Flea Problems for Your Dog

The other culprit that can be a “stealth” source for fleas on dogs is…your CAT. Not only do cats tend to act as flea “buses” bringing the “outdoors in”, but the fleas we find on dogs are frequently CAT flea species. Unfortunately, they find dogs just as tasty.

Speaking of cats, what if you have indoor-only cats? Do you have to be concerned about fleas? Well, it depends, if you have hard surface floors and minimal material upholstery or area rugs, then it is highly unlikely your cat will have flea problems.

If on the other hand, you move into a carpeted home WITH your cat, there may be eggs or larvae in the carpets waiting for a better deal. Enter: your cat. In this case, it is wise to use a topical or oral product for at least six months  on the carpet.

Consider using a safe product such as diatomaceous earth or boric acid powder. Sprinkle it into the carpet and vacuum it up, to desiccate remaining pests.

 Dog getting a bath using flea shampoo

Misconceptions About Flea Shampoo

One popular misconception is the use of FLEA SHAMPOOS. Flea shampoos do not have any lasting impact on killing fleas, and are bad for this reason:

They use toxins to kill the fleas on the pet but they don’t typically last more than 24 hours, so you have to use more toxins –increases total toxic load. Please don’t use “flea shampoo” unless your pet has an overwhelming infestation of fleas /ticks and MUST have that “kill” effect due to health risks.

There are also now oral products on the market that work much more safely for a quick kill effect on a heavily infested pet. They are intended for only a 24-hour effect and must be followed with a longer acting flea /flea combination preventative.

 Dr. Tiffany Margolin posing with a dog

Veterinary-Approved Flea and Tick Protection

So what DO you use? There are veterinary-recommended flea and tick products evolving every month, it seems. Some kill only fleas, some ticks, and fleas, and some include extras like internal parasites, heartworm, mites, and mosquitoes.

This article is not intended to recommend specific products, but I advice you only use a product obtained through a veterinarian.

Over the counter products (non-veterinary) either do not work well, or, far worse, some have proven fatal to a number of pets-specifically CATS –and the companies are still not being held accountable.

You’re playing Russian roulette to use some of the highly toxic compounds sold in over the counter pesticide-laden flea products.

The veterinary compounds still have some negative qualities, but the overall goals are modulation of the insect metabolism, and avoiding ill effects on your pet.

I am a holistic vet and I’m frequently queried about natural alternatives for flea and tick control.

Please DO NOT USE ESSENTIAL OILS DIRECTLY ON YOUR PET. Too many are not correctly mixed or diluted and can cause severe irritation of the skin.

In cases of cats, they can have severe reactions to ingested essential oils. I find feeding a measured amount of garlic (a small amount daily) and nutritional yeast to DOGS can prevent fleas.

This recipe was recently posted for a natural flea and tick powder that can also be used:

-1 cup Food Grade Diatomaceous Earth
-1/2 cup Neem Powder
-1/2 cup Yarrow Powder
-20 Drops Eucalyptus Essential Oil–Leave out the
essential oil if using for cats.

A word about ticks, they are MUCH tougher than fleas, and they do carry some diseases that can be life-threatening.

Although we’re at a lower risk of that in California, there are still dogs who have contract tickborne diseases.

The risk occurs when the tick has been attached to the dog’s skin for over 24 hours.

To kill or repel ticks requires specific compounds, and only some of the products do this.

I personally find that these are “big guns,” only to be used if your pet picks up ticks in their own yard.

If you’re worried about ticks when out on a hike or camping with your dog, I recommend getting a tick collar that is only used at the time of the outings and checking your pet over carefully once back. This way the more toxic products don’t stay on/in your dog when they’re not needed.


Ear Mites vs. Yeast Infections

Lastly, people often mention they are concerned about their pets’ “ear mites.” In many well-homed, indoor dogs and cats, mites are a very low probability. Usually, the dark waxy material that has an odor, is a yeast infection, with its roots in food allergies.

In fact, one of the cardinal signs or “flags” of a food allergy is excess ear wax/yeast, odor, and itching.

Your veterinarian can easily distinguish yeast infection from mites. In addition, cat ear mites (the more common case) do not transmit to dogs.

Unless you place your cat’s ear wax into your ears, they won’t be interested in your ears!

In the case your cat really does have mites, there are simple topical products that result in a quick resolution.

As summer progresses into the cooler months, remember that California fleas are like California people…they are here for the weather, all year long!

In late fall/winter, you can reduce flea control measures or increase application intervals to every other month, but stopping flea control completely is unlikely.

Consider trying one of the natural remedies mentioned above if you’d like to experiment. It may be the perfect answer.

For more flea and tick solutions, please contact us by clicking here.

Holistic Approaches: Back or Leg Pain in Dogs

holistic approaches to back or leg pain in dogs

Just the other day I received a call from a VERY distressed owner.

“Doctor, Cici isn’t doing well at all and she has a leg problem. We have X-rays but she is still limping and can’t seem to get comfortable. Can you help her?”

I wondered about the X-rays. I’ve so often heard, “Oh yes, they took X-rays (properly termed radiographs) of EVERYTHING. They didn’t find anything”! 


What Are X-rays Not Picking Up?

Usually, what I find in these cases are that hips, a knee, an elbow or shoulder is the focus of  the radiographs. I cannot TELL you how many times there are NO pictures of the pet’s neck or lower spine. 

Yet, the VAST majority of pain appearing as a limp or stiffness in middle-aged or older dogs comes from the spine.

There are a great number of structures  in the region of the spine, that affect the gait or the way a pet walks. Besides the obvious “disc” (that may bulge or be calcifying), there may be inflammation of structures around the bones, muscle spasms, fibrous tissue from old injuries, or plain, simple “arthritis” of different areas of the spine. ALL of which can cause progressive or intermittent signs.

The important thing is that you can learn to recognize this and help the vet to help your pet.


Signs of Pain in the Back, Legs or Neck:

  • Shifting front leg lameness or limping that is hard to localize to one leg (front legs look for neck issues).
  • Slow to squat or push up from squatting when defecating (lesions in the region of the tailbone).
  • “Hunching” of the lower back, a curve that seems more pronounced than before (this can occur in younger dogs as well with muscle spasms of the back).
  • Spasms that look like a standing seizure in small dogs, in which they curve to one side in a “C” shape and are struggling to walk.
  • Snappiness upon petting, scratching or bumping your dog’s hips or lower back.
  • An intermittent or unexplainable yelp of pain or shaking (often neck pain).

“But doctor, he never cries or whines.” 

Think about your own knees or back. When they hurt, do you cry out? Do you whimper? Dogs are even more stoic than we are. It’s not the sharp, unbearable type of pain (except with acute neck pain) that they are usually suffering. Instead, they tend to “suffer in silence”, which only keeps us from recognizing how uncomfortable they may be.

Although it seems animals don’t “tell us where it hurts,” they actually do. We just need to learn their pain language and pay attention. If you think it’s a leg (and you have an older pet), you may want to be sure to rule out back pain with your veterinarian. 


Back Pain or Leg Pain?

So why is it so important to know whether it’s a “back or a leg?” Because the effective treatment can be radically different. 

When I got the call about Cici, I saw her, and my stomach lurched. This dog was in severe pain. And she was on pain medications appropriate for a JOINT or a LEG. But I realized she had neck pain, and her radiographs were only of the elbow and hip joints. 


Holistic Approaches to Solve Cici’s Pain

Because she was in so much pain, she could not tolerate excessive handling, so her owners decided to try acupuncture, one of our holistic approaches, for her neck and a treatment trial of corticosteroids and muscle relaxants, often the best initial way to address the immediate pain and swelling.

The next day I was hesitant to call, afraid I would hear nothing good. On the contrary, Cici had had her best night in weeks. Her owners were ecstatic, grateful and relieved, and Cici was out of pain (finally).

In reviewing her history, all I had to do was listen (she had a metal rod in her back for gosh sakes)! And to pay attention to her level of stiffness and movement. Dogs with joint pain rarely if ever, shake in pain when lying still. But neck pain is different, often sharp and severe.

I’m happy to report that Cici is feeling like herself again.  She will be under observation and receive continued acupuncture treatments to help as much as possible with her ongoing issues. She is not a candidate for surgery again, and many times these situations can get better and stay that way with the right balance of holistic approaches and western medicine.

For more information about how to tell if your pet is in pain, what to do about it, and if you’re interested in talking further about a couple holistic approaches to your dog’s pain, please call From the heart vet.

Natural Bird: creating a holistic lifestyle

natural bird

We have had so many wonderful innovative products that cross over from human holistic and herbal medicine quite easily to our furry friends (dogs and cats). But what about our feathered companions?

As many of you know, birds have very different and complex physiology compared to that of dogs and cats. They have often been referred to as “little dinosaurs,” because of their multiple air sacs, air-filled bones and extreme sensitivity to toxins of all types. Because of this, there has been hesitation and extreme caution in providing birds the herbs and supplements proven so beneficial for dogs and cats.

However, there are both supplements and modalities that are safe for your bird and should be considered when working with your vet, to provide your bird with nutrition and preventative health.


Essential Fats

While nut oils such as peanuts, cashews, pistachios and seeds of ALL TYPES are considered the “bad” type of fats for your bird, contributing in large part to fatty liver problems, your bird still needs essential fats. A safe fat that will give your natural bird  polyunsaturated fatty acids and balanced Omega-3, is from the red palm fruit (not seed).


Omnivorous Diet for the Natural Bird

The most critical part of your bird’s preventative maintenance /health is correct nutrition. Peanuts contain high amounts of mold toxins, which is now considered to be one of the big contributors to birds dying of liver disease (it’s not always just the “fat”).

All types of nuts and seeds carry this risk. No matter how “hard” it is, it is well worth it to take the time to convert your bird to an OMNIVOROUS diet. You can do this by starting with 1/3 of their “usual” food, 1/3 plain Cheerios, and 1/3 of the new organic pellet or crumble. I like Harrison’s, Roudybush and a few of the new non-seed based organic diets available. I do not recommend any other pellets out there.

protein for a natural bird diet


Make Sure your Bird Gets Enough Protein

If you are going to feed your bird whole foods, you must make sure the feed includes enough protein. Eggs whole or with a large percentage of egg white (cooked please, ideally organic), lean chicken and lean beef or fish, are all acceptable. This replaces the insect matter they would eat in the wild.


A Natural Bird Diet Consists of Vegetables

When you’re putting vegetables into your bird’s diet, make sure they are lightly steamed. Raw vegetables can be a turn-off and less digestible, although great beak work for the birds that love to tear them apart! Some great ones are Italian squash, yellow squash, broccoli and cauliflower. For the little birds such as cockatiels, budgies and even canaries/finches, you can hang a fresh sprig of cilantro or parsley EVERY DAY in place of millet. DO NOT FEED MILLET. IT IS LIKE POTATO CHIPS FOR BIRDS.

fruit to feed a natural bird


The Right Types of Fruit to Feed your Bird

If your bird is frugivorous (a fruit eater), use the higher nutrition fruits such as kiwi, papaya and mango. Avoid grapes and oranges. Apples provide excellent fiber and are best if organic. 

DO NOT EVER FEED YOUR BIRD CHEESE. Besides the fat, it can form an obstruction in the gizzard, which is life-threatening.



The Best Way to Provide Vitamin D to your Bird

Sunlight outdoors with no window/screen is the best source of Vitamin D. If not available, get a bird light (OttLite) and place it at least 18 inches from the cage turned on 8 hours/day.

Most birds are calcium deficient and that affects their CARDIOVASCULAR health. This is due to the above problems with Vitamin D, essential for the absorption of calcium. The best supplement is Calcuim Glubionate syrup, available at most pharmacies and used at a dose of 1-2 tsp. into 8 oz. of drinking water fresh daily. This can be used for life. It is only the birds taking excess vitamin D (toxic) that have any risks with this. I have never met a pet bird with Vitamin D toxicity.

natural bird


Holistic Treatments for Birds

You can also use natural treatments on your bird to decrease their future health issues. Most birds with arthritis or foot problems will not stand for acupuncture, no pun intended. But they do great with COLD LASER therapy. Ask your holistic vet about this option for birds, as there are very few medications they can take for pain. Alpha-wave machines can promote healing, calm and well-being in birds as well.

Flower remedies are excellent for birds that need calming (do not work very well with feather picking, which is a disorder often associated with liver and hormonal issues as well as nutrition and owner behaviors).

Chinese herbal formulas made in the US and in the right hands (no over the counters, please!) are excellent for healing.  Ask your holistic vet about this.

Antioxidants such as CoQ10 are excellent for heart issues. Curcumin is an excellent anti-inflammatory. Milk thistle and vitamin E, along with SAMe are in liver support supplements. An herb called Yunan Baiyaou is proving excellent to control bleeding in birds with inoperable bleeding tumors. There are prescription pharmaceutical quality preparations of all of these, and more, that can be scaled down for your natural bird.

PEA is a current cannabinoid that is a natural anti-inflammatory with no psychotropic effects. Compounding pharmacies do a great job of using palatable mixtures to help “get the supplements in” to your bird. Ask your vet for the formulation in the flavors and they can also let you know what your bird may prefer.

These are a few of the options available to help your natural bird. If they are on a great diet, get direct sunshine on a regular basis and have excellent supplements, you may never have to see a vet, except for the once a year checkup! Let’s put an end to a “crashing bird” that “seemed healthy” only a week ago. Let’s get them truly healthy NOW.

From the heart vet

If you are in the Santa Barbara area and you’re interested in getting your bird on a more holistic diet, I would love to hear from you. Please don’t hesitate to reach out to us by clicking HERE.

Euthanasia: What to Expect

older dog

The other day, I was answering a request for a home euthanasia of a beloved family dog. This little dog was 19 years old and had a true “following” of people who loved her.

How We Help Families Prepare for  Euthanasia

In the past few years, coming to homes to help animals transition has proven to be a peaceful, beautiful, loving and highly appreciated part of my home services, and I really like to think of it as “giving your pet their wings,” as they are truly are little angels while here (that part of what I do is called Goodbye My Angel).

Animals give us amazing, unconditional love and illuminate the path to emotional and even physical healing for us. There is nothing quite like the human-animal bond, and when people don’t understand why they miss their pet so much, I try to explain it this way:

“Think about how many moments they are there for us. Who else do you know including your spouse, who is there in all of life’s moments, including accompanying you to the bathroom, lying in bed when you are sick and telling you that you’re still beautiful, and greeting you every time you step back into the house, no matter how many times that is in a day?”

When viewed that way, how could you NOT be more attached to your pet than to anyone in your life?

EuthanasiaThe little Pomeranian that was preparing to leave that day was surrounded by 12 loving people. While, to some this may seem a bit much, the beauty of their spoken prayers and songs for her passage truly moved me. Everyone should be sent off with that much love.

In the last few months I have noticed how many men of the household have an extremely difficult time with the process of letting go of their furry friend, to the point that they are breaking down or leaving the house due to emotional distress. Men in our society haven’t always had the support for pet loss that is so critical.

Often some of this is brought on by unanswered questions –such as,

“How does this work?”

“What do I look for?”

“What do I expect when you are here?”

“What happens afterwards?”

This is all part of “anticipatory grief”: knowing the inevitable decision is coming, yet, not knowing what to look for and “how it goes” when  it arrives.


Signs Your Pet is Ready to Transition

So here it is.  What you look for can vary, but the most important thing to notice is that your pet is not having the same quality of life as they are used to.

They may continue to eat, but not walk well, or be embarrassed by accidents in their beds and home. Animals are not so attached to their bodies and earthly life as we are, and are far more accepting of letting go when their bodies fail them.

One thing to remember is that they can tell when we do not want to let them go, and may hang on too long, in pain and feeling weak, simply because of OUR strong emotions. I have learned over the years that one thing people often regret is waiting TOO LONG to make the decision. So realize that your aging or suffering pet is often ready well before you are.

animal euthanasia

Our Euthanasia Process

What happens when I come over?  Firstly, your pet should be in their favorite bed, favorite room or yard area, and try to give them fun things to eat or toys that they love.

I have been advised by those who communicate with animals, that it is best if you verbalize to them that you are okay for them to leave. Even if you are sad, you tell them you will be okay.

Next, I will give them a small injection of sedative just under the skin (in the usual vaccination site) that will take full effect by about ten minutes. In this time they will lie down, relax, may have a lolling tongue, and often their eyes will remain open. They are fully anesthetized and do not feel anything once asleep.

Once they are deeply into this sedated sleep, it is time for the final injection. This is simply a strong anesthetic at an extreme overdose, causing the sleep to deepen so much that their heart and brain stop. It is very rapid and very peaceful. There is no awareness.

Once a pet has passed peacefully this way, we have an amazing service that will provide aftercare and if you so choose, return ashes and a paw print to you. If someone does not want ashes returned, they will be scattered in a beautiful field or over the ocean. All steps are taken with dignity and respect for their lives.

We all wish our pets could live as long as we do. I just remind each and every one that their short, loving, beautiful lives demonstrate the full spectrum of living presently  in each moment, loving, playing and saying a graceful goodbye…so we can see how life is best lived, truly.

If you are looking for this type of service, please contact us here. For more information on our home euthanasia service, please click on this website.

With all the love, Dr. Tiffany Margolin, owner of From The Heart Mobile Vet.

Vaccinations: To give or not to give?

What are the necessary vaccinations your pet needs-

We have seen the tides turn, once again. The enthusiasm over rattlesnake and Lyme’s vaccines on top of the other “core” vaccines, has finally died down, and you can discuss the pros and cons (I hope) with your veterinarian now.

However, what are the core vaccinations you “need” to give your pet? Here are some words of comfort and moderation: 


What Vaccinations Are Necessary for your Pet to Get?

1. In the first year of your pet’s life, we do (even as integrative vets) generally recommend the initial set of 3 sequential vaccinations for distemper, parvovirus, hepatitis and in some cases (some areas of the country), coronavirus or leptospirosis. We also highly  recommend the upper respiratory vaccination in the nasal or oral form (less push on the body and more effective than injectable).

2. Rabies vaccination is mandatory and must be given at appropriate intervals. 

3. After the first or second year, I recommend blood testing for vaccination titers (usually distemper and parvovirus) to determine if your pet is protected without having to boost the vaccine. Although some vaccinations are “good” for three years, if you are monitoring, I recommend a yearly vaccination titer. Just a week ago I had a 12-year-old dog who had been on a three-year interval vaccination schedule, and when he failed the titer testing, we knew it was time for him to get another round of vaccinations. Never assume protection is in place without testing.

4. You will/should still have the yearly upper respiratory (bordetella) vaccination, as this infection is seen almost every summertime in random dogs, whether at a kennel or not.

5. Rabies will still be mandatory every three years.

6. Discuss whether your dog has exposure to rattlesnakes or you have problems controlling ticks from attaching for more than 24 hours. If so, you may want the vaccinations for these issues.

7. There is no clear evidence yet, however, I err on the side of caution not over vaccinate when a pet has been diagnosed or is at risk for an autoimmune disorder. Consult your vet if you ever have questions about vaccinations or whether specific vaccinations are needed for your pet. Sending lots of healthy vibes